 Borgo di Colloredo
Talk about uncompromising producers! Enrico di Giulio, owner and winemaker at Borgo di Colloredo, sometimes makes people around him pull their hair out with his perfectionism. We love and respect him for it, but it can indeed cause some problems. For example, everyone "knows" that a Rose needs to be of the current vintage to sell, and so we need it on our shores by early May to get it to our customers in time for "Rose season." But Enrico knows that his Biferno Rosato can't be bottled until late April, and so we don't usually get it here until sometime in June or July.
Honestly, the wine is one of the greatest Rose's in Italy (and is recognized as such by Luca Maroni) and is actually better with some age on it, but trying to explain that to a market that thinks Rose is useless if not completely "fresh" is difficult. Difficult, but worth it. We like a challenge:-) Another example is that Enrico is quite willing not to release a wine if he thinks the vintage was not up to his standards. This is a common enough practice with a $50/bottle Barolo, but it shows tremendous integrity for a winemaker to do the same for a $20 bottle of Aglianico. If all winemakers were as conscientious, it would be a different world of wine, to be sure. Molise is relatively unknown in the US as a wine-producing area, although it has a distinguished history. (Did you know that the grand prize winner at the Paris World Expo in 1889 was a wine from Molise?) The Molise wine industry was destroyed at the beginning of the 20th century by phyllioxera, and only in the past 40 years has it begun to re-invent itself. But the somewhat Bordeaux-like conditions, with vineyards near to the Adriatic sea, create unique and delicious wines, well deserving of any wine-lover's attention. Specifically in Borgo di Colloredo's wines, there is a certain "salinity" that we feel brings out the flavors of the fruit in a way that is analagous to the way salt brings out the flavor in all foods. So, although Molise shares indigenous varietals with its three neighbors, Puglia, Campania, and Abruzzo, the same varietals produce wines of very different character in Molise. (You may think you know Falanghina, for example, but until you have tried Enrico's version, you have only seen one dimension of what the grape can offer...) Borgo di Colloredo fits with our other offerings also because of Enrico's philosophy and goals for the winery. He is passionate about promoting awareness of the history, traditions, and wines of Molise and has no interest in trying to make "international" wines. Rather, he wants to make wines highlighting the indigenous grapes of the area. The winery is spotless and modern, and the winemaking is designed to exalt the character of the fruit, using a combination of stainless steel, barriques, tonneau, and 25 hectoliter "botte" for aging. Besides several "due bicchieri" awards in the Gambero Rosso Guida itself, Borgo di Colloredo boasts multiple mentions in the Slow Food Guide to the "Best Italian Wines For Under 8 Euros." (OK. That's how much they cost there, but nevertheless, they represent great value here as well!) Every one of these wines, without exception, has a freshness, vibrancy, and personality that over-delivers for the price, and we are gratified to see them being accepted with such exceptional enthusiasm and interest here in the US in the short time they have been in the market. Wine List
|
